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RUNWAY

What we learned from the FW25 show

Notes from the runway.

Oct 25, 2025 · 8 min read · Hélène Marquise

The FW25 show ran 18 minutes. There were 41 looks. The closing look was a gold crescent over a floor-length Eclipse dress, worn by close friend of the house.

Below are the five things we learned.

1. The crescent reads bigger than we thought. From row 8, Maria's embroidery looked like a halo.

2. The audience was quieter than usual. In a good way. People actually watched.

3. The press never asked about AI.

4. They asked about Portugal, where we made the regenerative polyamide.

5. The music — John Adams on loop, 41 minutes — was wrong. We were supposed to play it once. The sound op queued it 41 times. By the closing look, Maria's crescents were moving in time.